upcoming kits

My Netherland Dwarf Buck

Blue Otter Buck

Fiber is vital to the normal function of the digestive system in rabbits. Fresh grass hay and vegetables should make up the bulk of the diet for house rabbits. Feeding a diet consisting mainly of pellets may result in obesity and increase the likelihood of digestive problems. While there is some fiber in pellets, it is finely ground and does not appear to stimulate intestinal function as well as fiber found in grass hays. Roughage also aids in the prevention of hair balls. The addition of some pellets does add some balance to the diet, however.

Anything other than hay, vegetables, and pellets is considered a treat and should be feed in strict moderation. The digestive system of a rabbit is very susceptible to serious upsets if the diet is inappropriate. The amount of pellets should be restricted, especially in overweight rabbits, but any reduction in pellets should be made up with a variety of fresh vegetables and unlimited access to hay.

Hay
Hay (grass hays such as timothy or oat hay) should be available at all times. Some rabbits may not take much hay at first. Adding fresh hay a couple of times a day may help, and as the amount of pellets is reduced the rabbit will likely become hungry enough to eat the hay. The House Rabbit Society recommends starting baby bunnies on alfalfa hay and introducing grass hays by 6-7 months, gradually decreasing the alfalfa until the rabbit is solely on grass hays by 1 year. Alfalfa hay is higher in calcium and protein and lower fiber than the grass hays, although many owners find their rabbits prefer alfalfa hays. If your adult rabbit is used to alfalfa hay, try mixing alfalfa with a grass hay to start and gradually reduce the amount of alfalfa.

Vegetables
Vegetable should make up a large portion of the diet. Depending on the size of the rabbit, 2-4 cups of fresh veggies should be given per day. A variety must be fed daily to ensure a balanced diet. If a rabbit is used to eating mainly pellets, the change must be made gradually to allow the rabbit's digestive system time to adjust. Only add one new vegetable to the diet at a time so if the rabbit has diarrhea or other problems it will be possible to tell which vegetable is the culprit. Suggested vegetable include carrots, carrot tops, parsley, broccoli, collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, turnip greens, endive, romaine lettuce, kale and spinach. However, kale, spinach and mustard greens are high in oxalates so their feeding should be limited to 3 meals per week. Beans, cauliflower, cabbage, and potatoes may cause problems and should be avoided. Iceberg lettuce has almost no nutritional value so should be avoided. Rhubarb should also be avoided (toxicity). Wash vegetables well, and only feed dandelions that are known to be pesticide free (try a health food store for organically grown dandelion greens).

Vegetables should be introduced to bunnies around 12 weeks of age, in small quantities and one at a time. As more vegetable are added watch for diarrhea and discontinue the most recently added vegetable if this occurs. Over time, the amount of vegetables fed is increased, and the amount of pellets decreased, so that by 1 year of age the adult feeding recommendations are followed.

Pellets
Pellets are basically designed for commercial rabbit production, and are quite high in calories. As a result, house rabbits fed unlimited pellets may end up with obesity and related health problems, as well as an excess of other nutrients. Pellets do have a place in rabbit nutrition, as they are rich and balanced in nutrients. However, experts recommend restricting the amoung of pellets fed, and compensating with fresh vegetables (see below) and grass hays.

Choose a fresh, good quality pellet. The House Rabbit Society recommends a minimum of 20-25% fiber, around 14% protein (with no animal protein), and less than 1% Calcium for most house rabbits (spayed/neutered). For adults, the amount should be carefully regulated, depending on the size (weight) of the rabbit. As a rule, give about 1/4 cup for rabbits 5-7 lb, 1/2 cup for 8-10 lb rabbits, and 3/4 cup for 11-15b lb rabbits. Baby rabbits can be fed pellets free choice (available at all times), decreasing to 1/2 cup per 6 lb. of body weight by around 6 months.

Treats
The House Rabbit Society recommends 1-2 tablespoons of fresh fruits be given daily as a treat. Treats sold in pet stores marketed for rabbits are generally unnecessary and in some cases could cause digestive problems due to their high carbohydrate or sugar content. Instead of food treats, consider offering twigs from apple or willow trees (pesticide-free only).

Rabbit Coat Colors

The number of coat colors found in rabbits is long and sometimes confusing. The following list covers the basic color descriptions or color groups found in rabbits.

Disclaimer: this list is meant to give a general idea of color variations, not to represent an exhaustive list or to accurately describe rabbit color standards as published by the American Rabbit Breeders Association for show or breeding purposes (see the ARBA site for detailed and official descriptions).

Agouti: bands of color occur on each hair - the colors of these bands vary depending on the type of agouti coloration. 
Black: dark black. 
Black otter: black body with lighter underside, hair may be orange tinted at the border of the black and lighter color. 
Blue: medium or slate blue. 
Blue otter: blue coat with fawn tipped guard hairs, fawn areas. 
Blue steel: blue with silver or tan "ticking" (see below) 
Blue tortoiseshell: blue and beige. 
Broken: white with any color patches or spots, with nose markings, colored ears, and eye circles. 
Brown-gray agouti: blue at base, then medium tan, charcoal, and tan at tip. 
Californian: white body with black on nose, ears, tail, feet. 
Castor: brown over top, slate blue undercoat, with orange or red in between. 
Chinchilla: slate or black blended with pearl, black tipped guard hairs. 
Cinnamon: rust or reddish-brown color. 
Chocolate: deep dark brown. 
Chocolate agouti: bands of tan and chocolate with a chestnut tip. 
Chocolate chinchilla: chocolate and pearl with chocolate tipped guard hairs. 
Chocolate steel: chocolate with tan or silver ticking. 
Chocolate tortoiseshell: creamy chocolate with fawn. 
Copper agouti: bands of red/orange and dark slate with red at tip, ticked with black tipped guard hairs. 
Cream: pinkish beige to almond. 
Fawn: straw color. 
Frosted pearl: pearl with black, blue, chocolate or lilac shading. 
Gray: three different colors of hair: black, black with tan tip, and black with tan band, and slate undercolor. 
Light gray: agouti with slate blue at base, off white in middle, and light gray at tip, with black tipped guard hairs. 
Lilac: pinkish pale gray 
Lilac chinchilla: lilac and pearl ticked with lilac tipped guard hairs. 
Lilac steel: lilac with tan or silver ticking. 
Lilac tortoiseshell: lilac and beige. 
Opal agouti: slate blue at base of hair, then gold, then blue tip. 
Orange: light to bright orange. 
Pearl: light creamy gray. 
Pointed white: white with black, blue, chocolate or lilac colored nose, ears, feet, tail (like a Himalayan coloring). 
Red: rich brown red color. 
Sable: dark grayish brown. 
Sable marten: siamese sable coloring with silver tipped guard hairs. 
Sable point: cream body and sable on nose, ears, feet and tail. 
Sandy: reddish tan. 
Seal: dark (almost black) sable. 
Self group: solid color in black, blue, lilac, blue eyed white, and ruby eyed white. 
Shaded group: color transitions from dark to light (e.g. frosted pearl, sable, sable point, siamese sable, seal, tortoise). 
Silver or silver fox: silver with white or white tipped hairs. 
Silver Marten: black, blue, chocolate or lilac with silver white markings and silver tipped guard hairs. 
Tan Pattern: marks (not necessarily tan) on nostril, eye circles, jowls, inside ears, belly, inside led, underside of tail. Groups included marten and otter colorations. 
Ticking: solid or tipped guard hairs different than the main coat color interspersed throughout the coat. 
Tortoise: orange with black, blue, chocolate or lilac. 
Tortoiseshell: orange or dark fawn and black. 
Tri-colored: white with any of black and orange, lavender blue and fawn, chocolate and orange, gray and fawn.

Molting

Molting

Molting is when rabbits lose their coat and grow in a new one.  A molt can last from 2-6 weeks or more.  It varies greatly from rabbit to rabbit and from breed to breed.  During this time, they can get a hair ball that can plug them up.  Giving hay daily will help this, but when one gets into trouble, we give them a little bit of dried papaya or fresh banana or even a little fresh pineapple.  In the spring and summer time, a dandelion leaf or two is a special treat for them that they seem to really like.  All of the above seem to help get their system going again.

Anggora Rabbit

1. Although rabbits build nests, they are not chickens and, after initial preparation, will not sit on their nests. They also do not stay on or by the nests after the babies are born. This would attract the attention of predators. The babies burrow to the bottom of the nest where they remain hidden until Mamma Rabbit wakes them up at mealtime.
2. Only rarely does a mother rabbit nurse her young right after giving birth. Most often the first nursing will occur the night after the kindling. The rabbit's rich milk sustains the babies for 24 hours at a time. The preferred mealtime is between mid night and 5:00 a.m.
3. A mother rabbit does not lie down in the nest, as a cat would do, but stands over the babies to nurse them. She does, however, clean them and lick their bellies and bottoms to stimulate elimination in much the same way as a cat.
4. If you want definite proof that the babies are being cared for, check them early each morning. They should be warm and round-bellied. The best way to know for sure is to weigh them on a small postage scale or kitchen scale. Write down a description and the weight. If they're gaining weight (1/4 oz. or so), they're being fed.
5. You can handle the babies even if the mother doesn't know you. Domestic rabbits are not that concerned over human smells.
6. Rabbits are not prone to cannibalism, as many people think. Cannibalism is an occasional result of a stillborn litter, and this is nature's way of cleaning up the "mistake." The activity and noisy squeaking of healthy babies trigger the "maternal instincts."Only rarely does a mother rabbit truly abandon or ignore her babies. This may occur when a very Immature rabbit gives birth, In which case, she usually does not build a nest or make any preparations. Her milk production Is also delayed. Sometimes the babies can be hand fed for short time until the mother rabbit can take over the job. Again, their daily weight gain is the test of adequate nourishment.
   
   
7. Generally a male rabbit is tolerant of young rabbits and, if neutered, can remain with his new family. The father will begin to nip and play roughly with the sons as they begin to reach puberty and start acting feisty. Then It's time for separation. A male rabbit must be neutered before being put back with the mother because she can conceive again immediately after giving birth. They should be kept separate for a minimum of two weeks after neutering.

Luna's Babies

Breed Netherland dwarf

Sire B Berry's Merlin

Dam RS's Luna

DOB 14 Dec 2011

total kits 4

Glorious day--your doe has kindled (given birth). The chances of you ever actually watching your rabbits giving birth are very slim. They'll just wait till you leave before giving birth - they can do that, you know.

Me? At this point I’m dying of curiosity.

• Are all the kits alive and healthy?
• How many new kits in the nest box?
• Is the doe taking care of them?
• Can I safely check, or handle, the kits?

Amazing events, are rabbits giving birth. Let’s answer these questions, because after your rabbit kindles, you need to ensure the doe and the kits are all fine.

Are the baby rabbits all alive and healthy?

You need to know, because if there’s a dead kit in the nest, and there might be, you'll need to remove them before they start rotting, smelling and attracting flies.

There could also be a few stray placentas laying around. The doe usually eats them. This apparently increases the correct hormones that she will need for making milk. But if you find any in the nest, and you might if the litter is large, then just pull them out and throw them away. The doe will have nothing to do with it, once she's finished with giving birth and feeding the babies their first 'meal.'

Rabbit kits are born with their eyes and ears sealed shut, and completely furless. Don’t be alarmed at how they look - it'll take them a couple weeks for the fur to grow in enough to keep them warm outside the nest box.

How many newborn rabbits are there?

Imagine rabbits giving birth to 15 babies! A rabbit litter can number anywhere from 1, all the way to 15. Yes, a couple of our does have kindled 15 kits. No, they didn’t all survive, sadly.

It's just as difficult, rabbits giving birth to just 1 kit. Chances rise that it freezes to death, even in the nest. But one of my does, who had just one kit, sat in her nest and helped keep the little one warm. Smart doe, I thought.

There are ways to help rabbits giving birth to more kits than she can handle. Your outcomes will improve if you remove a few of the babies from the nest, perhaps fostering them to those rabbits giving birth to just a few kits. This gives the stronger kits a better chance at a good start in life, and the weaker ones a better chance at survival.

Here’s how I do it: I let nature take its course for a couple days. At the end of, say, 2 days, it becomes evident which of the kits are not strong. The weaker kits will not be getting their fair share of the doe’s milk, and by, say, 2 days, these kits will have thin abdomens. 

I will remove the scrawny kits from the nest.  the gray bunny has no tummy. You don't want to see such a waist-line! But I'm happy to report that she still managed to get enough milk to do okay. She is still the runt of the litter, but doing very well. She may even turn out to be nice enough to show, once she discovers the delicious rabbit pellets.

Ideally, I reduce the litter size to at most, 10. Sometimes a few more kits become scrawny as well. In this case, the litter might end up numbering around 8. Most does are just fine with 8 kits. That's why I like to have 2 or more rabbits giving birth on the same day. It increases the odds I can foster a few kits to another doe, if necessary.

Is the doe taking care of the baby rabbits?

After rabbits giving birth comes the feeding of the kits, and the doe will likely take excellent care of her babies. But just to be sure, you can check the bellies of the kits. If they have nursed, their little bellies will be round, even distended.

But even if they don’t look full, they might safely go 1 - 2 days before getting a full ‘meal.’ This is probably built into the rabbit as a protective mechanism, since in the wild, the doe might need to stay away from the nest for a while to avoid leading predators to her kits.

Which brings up an important observation for domestic rabbit breeders: Mother rabbits only ever feed their kits once a day, rarely twice, and that for just 5 to 10 minutes. In this short time frame, the kits get their whole day’s milk supply. So, if you never see the doe go near the nest box, but the little kits have round tummies, everything is fine. You don’t need to help nature along. The doe is doing her job while you’re in bed asleep.

Can I safely check on the kits?

What a crazy lot of conflicting information there is on this point!

The answer is: Yes. Here’s how it works:

The doe has spent her 10 minutes in the nest at 11 pm at night. You come along in the morning and check on the kits. Even if you come along in the evening, you can still follow these steps.

• Give the doe a handful of hay or whole oats (or other favorite treat). This distracts the doe.
  
• Remove the nest box from the cage and place on a flat surface.
  
• Move the mound of fur aside. If you see any dead baby rabbits or placentas, remove them.
  
• Reach down into the deeper recesses of the burrow and pull out all the kits, counting each one.
  
  
  • Place them on top of the shavings in front of the burrow, one by one, where you can see them.
  • Observe that there are no dead kits in the back, down in their little sleeping burrow, and if there is, remove them.
  • Check that each kit has a full tummy and seems healthy. If the litter is large, there may be one or two whose bellies are not as full as the others, however hopefully they will have had at least some milk, and you can make a note to recheck in a day.
  • Replace the kits where you found them. Some may have already crawled back down into their burrow. Mound the fur where you found it, over top of the burrow.
• Put the nest box back into the cage.
  The doe will come check it out. She might hop in the nest and feed her babies, but chances are better that she won’t return to her babies until late at night.
• In the meantime, the kits will pick up the scent of their nest again, and lose your scent.
  
• If your doe knows you and your scent, and is comfortable with you, the chance is very great that she’ll be completely unimpressed by your scent on the nest box. I have NEVER had a doe reject her litter because I checked the nest box.
  
  
• If you have doubts, for example, if you acquired a pregnant doe who is unfamiliar to your home, if you never handle the doe, or if you know your doe is skittish or highstrung, then put a dab of vanilla extract on her nose. She won’t be able to smell anything else for a while, they tell me. You can check the kits safely, and they will lose your scent by the time she goes back into the nest to feed them.